Monday, June 15, 2009

Finally Out of Africa.. on to Sevilla



After our ferry mishap, we arrived in the port town of Algeciras too late to take a bus or train to our planned destination, Granda, so we stayed in a dingy hostel for the night. The next morning we woke up just in time to miss the early morning bus, so we took the 11:00am to Sevilla. When we arrived we got directions to our hostel and walked for what seemed like hours, constantly being turned down by cab drivers because they said it was too close to take a cab. After many misdirections, we had given ourselves a mini tour of the city. Beth finally saw the sign for our hostel: Nuevo Suizo. We were delighted to find that they had free coffee, hot chocolate, breakfast, internet and international calls. We spent most of our time in Sevilla just wandering the streets because there was so much to see. That night we went to a free flamenco show held at a nearby bar that had an underground feel to it. We were impressed by the amount of emotion and expression the dancers and musicians were able to show on teir faces and hrough their music. The next night we went to the Plaza de Espana and walked alog the river. Danielle and Molly took their laundry to get it done and found out the hard way that the laundry place closed at 8:30 and not 9:30, so when Rachel and Beth took off for Lagos, Portugal the next day, they had to stay behind in Sevilla because all the buses were full. It was sad to split up the group for a day, especially so close to Beth's birthday. In their final day they went to Alcazar, a palace constructed by the Moors in the seventh century with lavish gardens and labyrinths. They were grateful for the chance to visit. They spent the rest of the day roaming around. That night the receptionist at the hostel showed us around to a few bars and a dance club. It was a great way to end to our time in Sevilla and we are planning on returning.

The next morning we woke up just in time to catch our bus and reunite the group for Beth's birthday in Lagos!

Monday, June 8, 2009

So Many Kasbahs to Rock, So Little Time





MARRAKECH

Carriage to Riad



Majorelle Gardens



After three short weeks in Europe, it came time to tackle our fourth continent: Africa. We spent our final night in Italy sleeping at the Malpensa Airport in Milan so that we wouldn't miss our flight to Morocco. After some funny customs, we finally took a taxi to an internet cafe. Someone there recommended that we stay at a place called Hotel Ali in the center of Marrakesh. After settling in and attempting to nap off our grogginess from the night in the airport, we explored. Venturing onto the streets of Marrakesh is like stepping into Aladdin-snake charmers, story tellers, silver lamps and monkeys on leashes. We quickly fell in love with the 3 dirham (about $0.40) fresh squeezed orange juice. We spent our first day exploring the souks and attempting to take it all in.

Morocco is interesting because while it is not a wealthy country, the doors, tiling and woodwork are all very intricate and beautiful. Danielle and Molly went to one of the oldest Koranic schools in the area the next morning where even the bathroom had more elaborate designs and woodwork than even the oldest churches in the US. Later that day we went to the Majorelle Gardens designed by the late YSL and fell in love with the combination of the colors and the tropical plants there, not to mention they had delicious mint creme brulee. For dinner we found a traditional riad to eat at and took a horse drawn carriage to get there. It was the best food we had in Morocco.

The next day we decided to go to the coast because this is a world beach tour, so we planned a trip to Essaouria. The trip was supposed to be 2 hours each way. We arrived at the bus station and the bus we were supposed to take was full, so we had to leave 45 minutes later than planned. While we were waiting at the station, there was a man with a scythe sitting next to us. The ride took 4 hours so we only had enough time at the beach to grab dinner.

THE SAHARA






The next day we went with a group to the Sahara desert. We stopped along the way at an oasis, a small Berber village and a few other places to "make picture," and then spent the night at an adorable hotel along a river in the Gorge Du Dades. We sipped wine on the terrace and ate a Moroccan dinner with the group, whom we got to know better. The next morning after a Moroccan breakfast (Moroccan bread, honey, butter and o.j.) and as much free coffee as we could stomach we headed off to the desert. After another long day in the van, and a bumpy roller coaster ride to a small hotel on the edge of the Sahara where we drank Moroccan mint tea and were shown how desert nomads rock the head scarf. We grabbed small overnight bags and after picking a camel to ride we were guided into the desert. Molly's camel had a nose ring and a rebellious attitude which inspired her to name him Rufio. The surrounding view was stunning and we arrived just in time for sunset. For a better view we hiked up to the top of a steep sand dune, that required us to climb on all fours. Beth bobsledded down. We ate dinner Moroccan style dnner, meaning with no plates, little silverware and everyone hovering over the tagines like packs of wild animals, since we hadn't eaten all day. After chatting with everyone in the group and listening to one of the desert men play his drum we fell asleep under the stars. We woke up bright and early, whether we wanted to or not, to watch the sunrise and head back out of the Sahara on our camels. We had a quick breakfast and spent the next tweleve hours on the road back to Marakech. That evening, after grabbing our bags from the hotel we finally got in touch with Fatima (Annie's mom's friend's friend) and took a cab to her house in the High Atlas mountains. We were welcomed with a delicious homemade meal and were happy to get a good night's rest in a real home. It was interesting to hear her perspective of Morocco, having grown up in the states. The next morning we woke up, unaware of the time change, and quickly made our way to Imlil, a small town in the High Atlas mountains. We spent the day sitting by the river, eating cherries we'd picked and relaxing in the sun.

That night we headed back to Marrakech, and off to Fez on the train. Unfortunately, although we were on the night train, it arrived at 2:00am so we had to sleep/sit uncomfortably in the cold outside of the bus station. We layered ourselves in all the clothes we had with us, not having anticipated being cold in Africa. At around 6:00am we decided to catch a cab into the city to find a hostel. We ended up choosing a room from a Moroccan family that had wall to wall couches, one bed and a bathroom that had it been merely inches smaller we would have been stuck between the walls. The hallway to our room was not much wider than Beth's head and steeper than
everest. As always, we found the nearest grocery store and stocked up on essentials like cheese, candy and wine. We took an instant liking to Fez because of its more relaxed feel and less aggressive vendors. We also received many compliments, like that we were beautiful flowers, spice girls and the best one, received by Rachel, was "excuse me, believe me, you are blowing my mind." Or "I would trade 1000 camels for you as my wife." We stayed in the old city which looks like a medieval movie set: castle walls, men wandering the streets on donkeys and the most gorgeous mosaic gates. One day we hired a young boy by the name of Mustafa to give us a tour of the city. He showed us the tanneries, a riad filled with Berber rugs, a madersa (a koranic school) and an ancient mosque. Afterwards we went to dinner where we tried such Moroccan fare as pastilla (phyllo dough chicken pastry with cinnamon and almonds) and harira (veggie soup). We loved both.

The next day we hopped on a bus to our next destination, Chefchauon, a small town in the Rif Mountains painted primarily in blue and white. We loved the periwinkle walls and huge wooden doors. We found a great Spanish style hostel called Gernika, settled in and hit the different shops for some last minute souvenirs. We had dinner and ran into friends from the camel trek. The next morning we headed out early to Certa to cross the border to Spain and catch the ferry across the Mediterranean. Another long travel day, not to mention we were unaware of yet another time change and missed a ferry we had been waiting around for for around 2 hours...time for some tapas and flamenco!!

Friday, June 5, 2009

OPA!!

After a nine hour flight, and a stop-over in Doha, we made it to Greece! We were all very excited to be in Europe finally. We walked out of the airport to find a man holding a sign that said "Beth Gorman." Beth's parents had arrange for a taxi driver to pick us up at the airport and take us to the apartment in Athens where her parents had been for the last couple days. The taxi driver was great, he actually spoke English!! Plus it was a little chilly that day, which was a nice change from sweaty, sweaty Asia. It was also wonderful not to have to make any decisions about where to go or where to stay for once. We got to the apartment and were all very excited to see Jan and Paul. Having a nice apartment with brie, coffee, and a washer/dryer was also great.
Our first night in Athens we were all exhausted but headed out to have our first authentic Greek meal with Beth's parents. After some mousaka and a few glasses of wine we were all ready for a good nights sleep. The following morning Beth headed out around 6 am for a run, it was all going well until she found herself lost in Athens! Luckily she had her phone with her, unfortunately it died before she found her way home. Without any money for the metro and without any knowledge of the Greek language she felt utterly hopeless, but also found it funny at times. Roughly 6 hours later after her own personal tour of the city she made it "home." Later that day we all headed out for some shopping in Athens with Jan. We were all excited to see H&M and Zara. Beth's feet and legs hurt. That night we all went to see the Acropolis lit up, and had dinner, where we had our first taste of Restina and Ouzo!
The next day Beth went to the airport to get Justin (Justin is Beth's boyfriend) while the other girls wandered around the city. That night we all ate dinner together before heading off to catch a ferry to Crete.
We decided to take an overnight ferry to Crete, which was about 12 hours away. Getting to the port turned out to be much more difficult than we'd imagined, but luckily we made it with some help from a nice Athenian boy. The ferry was huge, we all quickly realized that we were not in Thailand anymore. There was a restaurant, a lounge, a casino; we were starting to think we were on a cruise ship. We arrived in Crete early in the morning and took a bus to Hania. While we waited for the hostels to open we took a look around at the lighthouse and the beautiful Venician-style buildings that make up Hania's harbor. After settling in and some breakfast we took a bus to Platanias, a nearby beach where we spent the day relaxing. We went out for dinner and
Rachel and Molly headed out early in the morning for the Gorge, where they hiked all day long.

That same day Danielle, Justin and Beth spent playing volleyball with the locals, burying Danielle in the sand, and swimming. It was a great day! Justin saw a postcard with a beautiful beach, asked around, found out it was Balos, and decided it was a must-see. We decided to stay a day longer than we'd planned to make our way to Balos. We accidentally wound up on a ferry to Balos with several tour groups. We stopped at Gramvousa Bay and hiked up a steep mountain to a Venetian fortress. Justin lost his sunglasses :(. Then we set off for nearby Balos. The water was crystal clear. It was a bit windy but the view was incredible, surrounded by turquiose waters. A great way to end our stay in Crete.
The next day we spent a few hours on a bus to Iraklion, and then took a ferry to Santorini, which we almost missed. It was a short ferry ride, and once in Santorini Beth and Justin split off from the girls. Sadly we had to part ways for the first time in 3 months as Beth and Justin headed to Fira where they ran into Beth's parents at the bus stop, what a small world!


T

Italy

Milan
After a quick flight from Athens we arrived in Milan. We made our way into the city center just as it was getting dark after an hour bus ride from the airport. Finding our hostel was a tougher feat than we had expected, after discovering that rather than having street signs, the street names were just posted on buildings. Our big backpacks didn't help. After settling into our room, we craved our first Italian meal. Luckily when we walked onto the street, just around the corner there was a hole in the wall Pizzaria, that had by far our favorite pizza to date. And of course we sought out the best gelato spot on the block and fell in love. The next morning we made our way to the train station and off to Levanto we went.

LEVANTO
Our first European train ride flew by because we were so excited to be in Italy. We decided to go west to a small city just north of Cinque Terre called Levanto. We were quickly swept away by the charming feel of the city. While searching for our hostel we realized that we arrived during a really intense bike race/festival going on in the middle of the city. We seem to be in all of the right places at the right time. Shortly after checking into our hostel, we found a local produce market where we bought some fruit and veggies. This was followed by a trip to the grocery store where we loaded up on cheese and wine. After polishing off our treats we meant to take a short cat nap, but ended up falling asleep until the morning.

The next day, to make up for our lazy first day, we decided to do the Cinque Terre hike. It was a 5 hour hike/walk through five coastal towns nestled in between cliffs, olive groves and vineyards.
We managed to make a few stops for pictures, gelato, chocolate caneloni and the occasional glass of vino.

The next day was our final day in Levanto so we spent it on the beach. We wanted to stay an extra night but tourist season had started and we had to change our plans last minute. The woman at the reception mentioned that Lucca was a cute place to stay the night, so we made hostel reservations and were off.

LUCCA
Upon first glance, Lucca reminded us of a scene out of Big Fish or Pleasantville. The Centro Storico, where we stayed, was walled off from the rest of the city and the main plaza contained little more than an antique carousel. Our hostel exceeded our expectations-it was furnished with enough beds for all of us, a couch, a table and a big window overlooking the plaza. They even had free coffee and pastries! The first night we went out to dinner where the men at the table next to us asked us to do a jingle for the radio station that they deejayed for. After a few takes we cam3e up with a real gem, something along the lines of: Hello, you're listening to radio 2000, woooo!! We also tried our first lemoncello that night, on the house.

The next day we woke up early because we had big plans to go to a small town on a hill called Terriciola to celebrate the annual Fragola (Strawberry) Festival that we had read about somewhere. People told us that it would be impossible to get there, but after several buses and a cab ride later, we defied the odds and ended up at the fest...only to get there during siesta so we were the only people in attendance. To pass the siesta hours, we decided to grab a bottle of local Tuscan wine, some strawberries and whip cream and sit on the ledge of a building overlooking the countryside. When we thought siesta might be ending we went back to the location of the festival just in time to see a marching band, dancers and to see that there were actually people other than us at the festival. We dined on strawberry risotto and scalopini (thinking it was strawberry scallops but realizing that that actually meant pork). It was one of our favorite Italian meals.

We spent the rest of our time in Lucca relaxing, seaking out grocery stores and enjoying the small town feel. On our final day in Italy we went to Pisa to see the leaning tower and then took a train to Florence for dinner and some sight seeing. We were there just in time to see the sun set over the river. After stuffing our bellies with walnut ravioli, pesto pasta and gelato we got on a train to Milan where we bussed to the airport to sleep for the night. Next we were off to Morocco!

Dizzy Donkeys

After a short ferry ride we arrived in Santorini and said our goodbyes to Beth and Justin. We quickly found a transfer from the port to Anna's Youth Hostel on Perissa Beach and unloaded our bags in a 4-bed room. After eating some yummy greek omlettes we headed straight to the ocean and were delighted to find our first black sand beach. Rachel enjoyed a relaxing foot massage while Molly and Danielle sunbathed on the free beach chairs. That night we enjoyed a lovely dinner by the beach and coincidentally found that our waitress was from Medford! She was nice enough to give us free baklava for dessert, which we graciously devoured. The next day we hit the beach again in the morning and then rented ATV's to drive around the island! It was truly an incredible experience to be able to drive around Santorini and take in the picturesque countryside. It took us about an hour to drive to Oia where we enjoyed crepes, wine and yet another spectacular sunset. Oia was even more beautiful than we expected and we all took pictures left and right. The next morning we quickly packed our bags, bought ferry tickets to Ios, and drove out to Oia one last time to say goodbye to Santorini. Around 4 that afternoon we were off to Ios for a taste of greek party life. We were definitely not disappointed. We spent the next 5 days lounging in the sun in front of Far Out Camping, and spent the nights dancing our hearts out at local bars in Hora, Ios' main city. We arrived in Ios at the same time many others did to work for the summer season, and found ourselves wondering why we werent doing the same. Almost every night we ate at our favorite food joint, Porkys, which served up the most delicious gyro crepes. On one of our last days on the island we decided to splurge and go for a ride on the "flying fish," which looked like 3 banana boats connected at the top so that when it is pulled behind a boat it literally flies in the air. It was way too much fun and we were all screaming and laughing hysterically the entire time. All in all, Ios was one crazy experience and we were definitely sad to leave Greece behind.

Wednesday, June 3, 2009

Livin' la vida Laos

From Chiang Mai, at the urging of various travellers we met in SE Asia, we worked our way to Laos. We began our two day journey taking a bus from Chaing Mai to the border town of Chiang Kong. After staying overnight there at a small hostel, we headed to the water to depart on our boat and cross the border into Laos. This proved to be a much longer and more tedious process than any of us had prepared for. At the port, we exited Thailand, only to be shuttled across the river to the Laos border on a longtail boat. Here, we paid for our visas, got stamped and made about three other random stops alongside a group of equally clueless westerners before boarding our slow boat down the Mekong about three hours later. One would assume that the seats of a boat that we would be spending enough time on in the next two days to drive from Portland to L.A. would at least have cushions. This was not the case. We each bought them before boarding and found a place in the only two remaining wooden benches in the back. Because the seats were full, however, in no way meant the boat was full. As long as there is space on the floor, the boat is not full.

We finally started our slow journey. After two long, sweaty and occasionally tipsy days, everyone on the slow boat got to know eachother. And we arrived at our first Laos destination, Luang Prabang.





LUANG PRABANG
We had few expectations going into Laos beyond the tubing in Vang Vieng, so we were pleasantly surprised when our first stop was a quaint, French inspired town with cobblestone streets, wooden shutters, striped umbrellas and monks in tangerine colored robes. We settled in to our guest house, grabbed dinner and strolled in and out of the shops lining the streets. We retired early the first night weary from travelling. We took it pretty easy the next day, walking around, watching the monks swim in the river and checking out the night market. That night, our friends who we stayed with in Australia, Lindsey, Hillary, Jai and Alexa came and met up with us from Vang Vieng. It was a great reunion-we always enjoy having new people join the group. The next day we decided to go to some waterfalls 35 km away. Beth and Molly decided to do it by bike and about halfway through they realized that there is a reason that they are called beach cruisers. Apparently the baskets on beach cruisers are not meant to be used because Beth's tire became flat, fortunately when they stopped to fix the tire they stumbled upon some adorable puppies :). After two hours riding through undulating hills they reunited at the base of the falls. They were spectacular and had an enchanting feel to them, like they belonged on one of those unicorn fairy posters that grace the walls of magic card playing high schoolers. We hiked to the highest fall that fell into a series of clear pools. Shortly after arriving, middle-school aged monks arrived and started doing backflips off the surrounding trees into the small pools. Later everyone gave the rope swing a try. Around dinner time we headed back to the guest house and got ready for a big night at the bowling alley-the town hangout. The night ended with Rachel, Molly, Jai, Hillary and Alexa playing a variation of hide-and-seek, called sardines in the street.





THE INFAMOUS VANG VIENG
The next morning we took a tuk tuk to a van where we were shuttled off to Vang Vieng. Lindsey joined us, even though she had just come from there. The ride was one of the funniest, most unpleasant rides of the trip. We were all exhausted but the road was windy and the car lacked seat belts or any way to keep yourself in one spot, so sleeping wasn't an option and every turn sent us flying into one another for a grueling 8 hours. All we could really do was laugh because everyone was in the same boat. When we finally got in to town, we got a bungalow along the Vang Vieng river.

After settling in, Lindsey and Molly were on their way to the internet cafe to meet a friend from school who was already there, Carrington, when they ran into him on the street. Our first night, the six of us grabbed some of the best kebabs of the trip and Linds and Carrington filled us in on what we were in store for with this tubing. The next day Danielle and Beth weren't feeling well so they decided not to go to the river. Molly, Rachel, Carrington and Lindsey hopped in a tuk tuk and were greeted at the river with MGMT's Kids blaring from the first bar. It consisted of a bar counter, area with picnic tables and a railless deck covered in mangy rugs and college aged kids drinking Beer Laos and Whiskey buckets. There was a circus style trapeeze swing hanging about 20 feet above the water hanging from a tree. Molly and Carrington climbed to a platform and seconds later were flying through the air while people looked on. As we advanced down the river people got a bit rowdier, music got a bit louder and rope swings, zip lines and water slides materialized. It was a good way to spend our first full day.



Most days played out like this, but on the third day, Molly dove into murky water and had a run in with a rock, sending her to the emergency room in a tuk tuk. Rather than asking her what happened, accustomed to dealing with injuries from the river, the doctor simply asked "were you diving or swinging?" She left bandaged like a cartoon character with a tooth ache. Two days, twenty-something stitches, a black eye, a border crossing and 13+ hours of bus rides later we found ourselves back in Bangkok. As always, John was extremely hospitable and let us stay with him until our flight to Greece. It was a good time to rest, recoup, catch up on The Hills and for Molly to get checked out by a hospital. One night we went out on the town in Bangkok to see how the locals did it-not as much dancing as we expected. We went to a place called Titanium that had an ice bar-a freezer that had a bar sculpted from ice and a bartender in a puffy jacket inside.

Our final night was Cinco de Mayo, and by coincidence, we prepared John a goodbye Mexican feast. The next morning headed to the airport to leave Bangkok for the final time. Goodbye SE Asia!