Friday, July 10, 2009

Return to Spain

SAN SABASTIAN
We got into San Sabastian late, so our first night, we just settled into our hostel, read our Twilight books (yes, all four of us are really into the Twilight series) and slept off any travel grogginess. The guy who checked us in was an energetic man and he explained the things we could do in San Sabastian on the map-sound effects included. We spent our only full daz there on the beach, swimming, relaxing and enjoying our dwindling hours together as a foursome. The next day we hiked to an old castle where we met some Oregonians who, coincidentally, lived pretty close to Raliegh Hills. The castle gave us a great view of the city and made us wish we had allotted a little more time there. After our hike, we gathered our ever-expanding baggage and did a long, slightly painful walk to the bus station. The bus ride was almost on par with some of the worst we’ve had. It was packed, the aircon didn’t work and Beth had to share her row with a baby who was seriously overdue for some diaper changing. The only upside of the bus ride was that we witnessed the most beautiful sunrise just as we approached Barcelona.

BARCELONA
Barcelona marked the last stop for us as a foursome. We spent our days, as we tend to whenever possible, on the beach. That’s not to say we didn’t soak in some Barcelona culture. We were awestruck by Gaudi’s buildings, especially Casa Mila and his unfinished cathedral, Sagrada Familia, both of which looked like they belonged in The Little Mermaid. We also went to the Picasso museum, which we really enjoyed. We consumed our fair share of tapas and sangria while we were there. We also made sure to go to the fountain at the Plaza de Espana on Saturday night to watch the water show, the fountain changed with music. When the 23rd rolled around, Beth was the first to go.We woke up early in the morning to see her off to Paris where she was headed to meet up with Steph. Danielle, Molly and Rachel spent the day doing some sight seeing, tanning and last minute souvenir shopping. When we returned to our hostel, we found that a pipe in the luggage room broke while we were out and our backpacks were waterlogged. Danielle only had a half hour to dry her stuff before catching her bus to Madrid to fly home. We frantically tried to dry some clothes with a hair dryer so she would have something dry to travel in. We parted ways with hugs and tears. It’s hard to believe that after four months together, connected at the hip, half of the group had left.


Peace, Love and Portugal

LAGOS




Meanwhile, over in Portugal, while Danielle and Molly were waiting for their laundry, Rachel and Beth had made their way to Lagos. The hostel we stayed at was much more “backpacker“ than most we’d been in-we shared a room with 14 girls on king-sized bunk beds. The floor and a closet were one in the same-clothes and bags were strewn everywhere. The woman who worked there was called “Mama“ and made everyone in the hostel crepes and lemon tea every morning. The following day was Beth’s birthday so Rachel and Beth decided to celebrate the day before and hit up what was later described by an acquaintance as “the most Portuguese bars in Lagos.“ They had an oppulent birthday dinner, taking advantage of the fresh seafood in Portugal. The next day Danielle and Molly finally made it to Lagos-the guy at reception in Seville joked that he would check if there was availability there for that night in case we decided to get our laundry done instead of catching our bus again. Finally the four of us were reunited again.We got in late in the afternoon and were weary from the bus ride so we decided to properly bring in Beth’s 23rd year the next night. We went an hour away to one of the beaches recommended by our book during the day-it was well worth the distance. That night we hunted down the only Mexican restaurant in town and ordered our first burritos and margaritas in months. We toasted to Beth’s birthday, went to a few bars and called it a night. We spent the rest of our time in Lagos checking out the beaches, sampling the cuisine and trying to decipher Portuguese. Danielle made guacaomole one day that was a hit at our hostel. We clearly miss Mexican food! On the final day there, Danielle, Rachel and Molly decided to do a “booze cruise“ around the beaches and through grottoes. It was gorgeous and a lot of fun. It ended just in time for us to reunite with Beth, grab our bags and catch the bus to Lisbon.

LISBON



We arrived in Lisbon late and decided to stay in a Marriott there-quite an upgrade from our previous hostel-we even had our own bathroom! It rained on our first day in Lisbon, so we laid low and took advantage of the gym and the movie channels, and of course found a nearby grocery store. The next day we set out to see the city. We took the trolley to a point overlooking the entire city and sipped mint cappucinos while taking in the view. We ended the night with Paella and a traditional Fado performance. The next day we went to the airport and boarded the plane to head back to Spain.

Monday, June 15, 2009

Finally Out of Africa.. on to Sevilla



After our ferry mishap, we arrived in the port town of Algeciras too late to take a bus or train to our planned destination, Granda, so we stayed in a dingy hostel for the night. The next morning we woke up just in time to miss the early morning bus, so we took the 11:00am to Sevilla. When we arrived we got directions to our hostel and walked for what seemed like hours, constantly being turned down by cab drivers because they said it was too close to take a cab. After many misdirections, we had given ourselves a mini tour of the city. Beth finally saw the sign for our hostel: Nuevo Suizo. We were delighted to find that they had free coffee, hot chocolate, breakfast, internet and international calls. We spent most of our time in Sevilla just wandering the streets because there was so much to see. That night we went to a free flamenco show held at a nearby bar that had an underground feel to it. We were impressed by the amount of emotion and expression the dancers and musicians were able to show on teir faces and hrough their music. The next night we went to the Plaza de Espana and walked alog the river. Danielle and Molly took their laundry to get it done and found out the hard way that the laundry place closed at 8:30 and not 9:30, so when Rachel and Beth took off for Lagos, Portugal the next day, they had to stay behind in Sevilla because all the buses were full. It was sad to split up the group for a day, especially so close to Beth's birthday. In their final day they went to Alcazar, a palace constructed by the Moors in the seventh century with lavish gardens and labyrinths. They were grateful for the chance to visit. They spent the rest of the day roaming around. That night the receptionist at the hostel showed us around to a few bars and a dance club. It was a great way to end to our time in Sevilla and we are planning on returning.

The next morning we woke up just in time to catch our bus and reunite the group for Beth's birthday in Lagos!

Monday, June 8, 2009

So Many Kasbahs to Rock, So Little Time





MARRAKECH

Carriage to Riad



Majorelle Gardens



After three short weeks in Europe, it came time to tackle our fourth continent: Africa. We spent our final night in Italy sleeping at the Malpensa Airport in Milan so that we wouldn't miss our flight to Morocco. After some funny customs, we finally took a taxi to an internet cafe. Someone there recommended that we stay at a place called Hotel Ali in the center of Marrakesh. After settling in and attempting to nap off our grogginess from the night in the airport, we explored. Venturing onto the streets of Marrakesh is like stepping into Aladdin-snake charmers, story tellers, silver lamps and monkeys on leashes. We quickly fell in love with the 3 dirham (about $0.40) fresh squeezed orange juice. We spent our first day exploring the souks and attempting to take it all in.

Morocco is interesting because while it is not a wealthy country, the doors, tiling and woodwork are all very intricate and beautiful. Danielle and Molly went to one of the oldest Koranic schools in the area the next morning where even the bathroom had more elaborate designs and woodwork than even the oldest churches in the US. Later that day we went to the Majorelle Gardens designed by the late YSL and fell in love with the combination of the colors and the tropical plants there, not to mention they had delicious mint creme brulee. For dinner we found a traditional riad to eat at and took a horse drawn carriage to get there. It was the best food we had in Morocco.

The next day we decided to go to the coast because this is a world beach tour, so we planned a trip to Essaouria. The trip was supposed to be 2 hours each way. We arrived at the bus station and the bus we were supposed to take was full, so we had to leave 45 minutes later than planned. While we were waiting at the station, there was a man with a scythe sitting next to us. The ride took 4 hours so we only had enough time at the beach to grab dinner.

THE SAHARA






The next day we went with a group to the Sahara desert. We stopped along the way at an oasis, a small Berber village and a few other places to "make picture," and then spent the night at an adorable hotel along a river in the Gorge Du Dades. We sipped wine on the terrace and ate a Moroccan dinner with the group, whom we got to know better. The next morning after a Moroccan breakfast (Moroccan bread, honey, butter and o.j.) and as much free coffee as we could stomach we headed off to the desert. After another long day in the van, and a bumpy roller coaster ride to a small hotel on the edge of the Sahara where we drank Moroccan mint tea and were shown how desert nomads rock the head scarf. We grabbed small overnight bags and after picking a camel to ride we were guided into the desert. Molly's camel had a nose ring and a rebellious attitude which inspired her to name him Rufio. The surrounding view was stunning and we arrived just in time for sunset. For a better view we hiked up to the top of a steep sand dune, that required us to climb on all fours. Beth bobsledded down. We ate dinner Moroccan style dnner, meaning with no plates, little silverware and everyone hovering over the tagines like packs of wild animals, since we hadn't eaten all day. After chatting with everyone in the group and listening to one of the desert men play his drum we fell asleep under the stars. We woke up bright and early, whether we wanted to or not, to watch the sunrise and head back out of the Sahara on our camels. We had a quick breakfast and spent the next tweleve hours on the road back to Marakech. That evening, after grabbing our bags from the hotel we finally got in touch with Fatima (Annie's mom's friend's friend) and took a cab to her house in the High Atlas mountains. We were welcomed with a delicious homemade meal and were happy to get a good night's rest in a real home. It was interesting to hear her perspective of Morocco, having grown up in the states. The next morning we woke up, unaware of the time change, and quickly made our way to Imlil, a small town in the High Atlas mountains. We spent the day sitting by the river, eating cherries we'd picked and relaxing in the sun.

That night we headed back to Marrakech, and off to Fez on the train. Unfortunately, although we were on the night train, it arrived at 2:00am so we had to sleep/sit uncomfortably in the cold outside of the bus station. We layered ourselves in all the clothes we had with us, not having anticipated being cold in Africa. At around 6:00am we decided to catch a cab into the city to find a hostel. We ended up choosing a room from a Moroccan family that had wall to wall couches, one bed and a bathroom that had it been merely inches smaller we would have been stuck between the walls. The hallway to our room was not much wider than Beth's head and steeper than
everest. As always, we found the nearest grocery store and stocked up on essentials like cheese, candy and wine. We took an instant liking to Fez because of its more relaxed feel and less aggressive vendors. We also received many compliments, like that we were beautiful flowers, spice girls and the best one, received by Rachel, was "excuse me, believe me, you are blowing my mind." Or "I would trade 1000 camels for you as my wife." We stayed in the old city which looks like a medieval movie set: castle walls, men wandering the streets on donkeys and the most gorgeous mosaic gates. One day we hired a young boy by the name of Mustafa to give us a tour of the city. He showed us the tanneries, a riad filled with Berber rugs, a madersa (a koranic school) and an ancient mosque. Afterwards we went to dinner where we tried such Moroccan fare as pastilla (phyllo dough chicken pastry with cinnamon and almonds) and harira (veggie soup). We loved both.

The next day we hopped on a bus to our next destination, Chefchauon, a small town in the Rif Mountains painted primarily in blue and white. We loved the periwinkle walls and huge wooden doors. We found a great Spanish style hostel called Gernika, settled in and hit the different shops for some last minute souvenirs. We had dinner and ran into friends from the camel trek. The next morning we headed out early to Certa to cross the border to Spain and catch the ferry across the Mediterranean. Another long travel day, not to mention we were unaware of yet another time change and missed a ferry we had been waiting around for for around 2 hours...time for some tapas and flamenco!!

Friday, June 5, 2009

OPA!!

After a nine hour flight, and a stop-over in Doha, we made it to Greece! We were all very excited to be in Europe finally. We walked out of the airport to find a man holding a sign that said "Beth Gorman." Beth's parents had arrange for a taxi driver to pick us up at the airport and take us to the apartment in Athens where her parents had been for the last couple days. The taxi driver was great, he actually spoke English!! Plus it was a little chilly that day, which was a nice change from sweaty, sweaty Asia. It was also wonderful not to have to make any decisions about where to go or where to stay for once. We got to the apartment and were all very excited to see Jan and Paul. Having a nice apartment with brie, coffee, and a washer/dryer was also great.
Our first night in Athens we were all exhausted but headed out to have our first authentic Greek meal with Beth's parents. After some mousaka and a few glasses of wine we were all ready for a good nights sleep. The following morning Beth headed out around 6 am for a run, it was all going well until she found herself lost in Athens! Luckily she had her phone with her, unfortunately it died before she found her way home. Without any money for the metro and without any knowledge of the Greek language she felt utterly hopeless, but also found it funny at times. Roughly 6 hours later after her own personal tour of the city she made it "home." Later that day we all headed out for some shopping in Athens with Jan. We were all excited to see H&M and Zara. Beth's feet and legs hurt. That night we all went to see the Acropolis lit up, and had dinner, where we had our first taste of Restina and Ouzo!
The next day Beth went to the airport to get Justin (Justin is Beth's boyfriend) while the other girls wandered around the city. That night we all ate dinner together before heading off to catch a ferry to Crete.
We decided to take an overnight ferry to Crete, which was about 12 hours away. Getting to the port turned out to be much more difficult than we'd imagined, but luckily we made it with some help from a nice Athenian boy. The ferry was huge, we all quickly realized that we were not in Thailand anymore. There was a restaurant, a lounge, a casino; we were starting to think we were on a cruise ship. We arrived in Crete early in the morning and took a bus to Hania. While we waited for the hostels to open we took a look around at the lighthouse and the beautiful Venician-style buildings that make up Hania's harbor. After settling in and some breakfast we took a bus to Platanias, a nearby beach where we spent the day relaxing. We went out for dinner and
Rachel and Molly headed out early in the morning for the Gorge, where they hiked all day long.

That same day Danielle, Justin and Beth spent playing volleyball with the locals, burying Danielle in the sand, and swimming. It was a great day! Justin saw a postcard with a beautiful beach, asked around, found out it was Balos, and decided it was a must-see. We decided to stay a day longer than we'd planned to make our way to Balos. We accidentally wound up on a ferry to Balos with several tour groups. We stopped at Gramvousa Bay and hiked up a steep mountain to a Venetian fortress. Justin lost his sunglasses :(. Then we set off for nearby Balos. The water was crystal clear. It was a bit windy but the view was incredible, surrounded by turquiose waters. A great way to end our stay in Crete.
The next day we spent a few hours on a bus to Iraklion, and then took a ferry to Santorini, which we almost missed. It was a short ferry ride, and once in Santorini Beth and Justin split off from the girls. Sadly we had to part ways for the first time in 3 months as Beth and Justin headed to Fira where they ran into Beth's parents at the bus stop, what a small world!


T

Italy

Milan
After a quick flight from Athens we arrived in Milan. We made our way into the city center just as it was getting dark after an hour bus ride from the airport. Finding our hostel was a tougher feat than we had expected, after discovering that rather than having street signs, the street names were just posted on buildings. Our big backpacks didn't help. After settling into our room, we craved our first Italian meal. Luckily when we walked onto the street, just around the corner there was a hole in the wall Pizzaria, that had by far our favorite pizza to date. And of course we sought out the best gelato spot on the block and fell in love. The next morning we made our way to the train station and off to Levanto we went.

LEVANTO
Our first European train ride flew by because we were so excited to be in Italy. We decided to go west to a small city just north of Cinque Terre called Levanto. We were quickly swept away by the charming feel of the city. While searching for our hostel we realized that we arrived during a really intense bike race/festival going on in the middle of the city. We seem to be in all of the right places at the right time. Shortly after checking into our hostel, we found a local produce market where we bought some fruit and veggies. This was followed by a trip to the grocery store where we loaded up on cheese and wine. After polishing off our treats we meant to take a short cat nap, but ended up falling asleep until the morning.

The next day, to make up for our lazy first day, we decided to do the Cinque Terre hike. It was a 5 hour hike/walk through five coastal towns nestled in between cliffs, olive groves and vineyards.
We managed to make a few stops for pictures, gelato, chocolate caneloni and the occasional glass of vino.

The next day was our final day in Levanto so we spent it on the beach. We wanted to stay an extra night but tourist season had started and we had to change our plans last minute. The woman at the reception mentioned that Lucca was a cute place to stay the night, so we made hostel reservations and were off.

LUCCA
Upon first glance, Lucca reminded us of a scene out of Big Fish or Pleasantville. The Centro Storico, where we stayed, was walled off from the rest of the city and the main plaza contained little more than an antique carousel. Our hostel exceeded our expectations-it was furnished with enough beds for all of us, a couch, a table and a big window overlooking the plaza. They even had free coffee and pastries! The first night we went out to dinner where the men at the table next to us asked us to do a jingle for the radio station that they deejayed for. After a few takes we cam3e up with a real gem, something along the lines of: Hello, you're listening to radio 2000, woooo!! We also tried our first lemoncello that night, on the house.

The next day we woke up early because we had big plans to go to a small town on a hill called Terriciola to celebrate the annual Fragola (Strawberry) Festival that we had read about somewhere. People told us that it would be impossible to get there, but after several buses and a cab ride later, we defied the odds and ended up at the fest...only to get there during siesta so we were the only people in attendance. To pass the siesta hours, we decided to grab a bottle of local Tuscan wine, some strawberries and whip cream and sit on the ledge of a building overlooking the countryside. When we thought siesta might be ending we went back to the location of the festival just in time to see a marching band, dancers and to see that there were actually people other than us at the festival. We dined on strawberry risotto and scalopini (thinking it was strawberry scallops but realizing that that actually meant pork). It was one of our favorite Italian meals.

We spent the rest of our time in Lucca relaxing, seaking out grocery stores and enjoying the small town feel. On our final day in Italy we went to Pisa to see the leaning tower and then took a train to Florence for dinner and some sight seeing. We were there just in time to see the sun set over the river. After stuffing our bellies with walnut ravioli, pesto pasta and gelato we got on a train to Milan where we bussed to the airport to sleep for the night. Next we were off to Morocco!

Dizzy Donkeys

After a short ferry ride we arrived in Santorini and said our goodbyes to Beth and Justin. We quickly found a transfer from the port to Anna's Youth Hostel on Perissa Beach and unloaded our bags in a 4-bed room. After eating some yummy greek omlettes we headed straight to the ocean and were delighted to find our first black sand beach. Rachel enjoyed a relaxing foot massage while Molly and Danielle sunbathed on the free beach chairs. That night we enjoyed a lovely dinner by the beach and coincidentally found that our waitress was from Medford! She was nice enough to give us free baklava for dessert, which we graciously devoured. The next day we hit the beach again in the morning and then rented ATV's to drive around the island! It was truly an incredible experience to be able to drive around Santorini and take in the picturesque countryside. It took us about an hour to drive to Oia where we enjoyed crepes, wine and yet another spectacular sunset. Oia was even more beautiful than we expected and we all took pictures left and right. The next morning we quickly packed our bags, bought ferry tickets to Ios, and drove out to Oia one last time to say goodbye to Santorini. Around 4 that afternoon we were off to Ios for a taste of greek party life. We were definitely not disappointed. We spent the next 5 days lounging in the sun in front of Far Out Camping, and spent the nights dancing our hearts out at local bars in Hora, Ios' main city. We arrived in Ios at the same time many others did to work for the summer season, and found ourselves wondering why we werent doing the same. Almost every night we ate at our favorite food joint, Porkys, which served up the most delicious gyro crepes. On one of our last days on the island we decided to splurge and go for a ride on the "flying fish," which looked like 3 banana boats connected at the top so that when it is pulled behind a boat it literally flies in the air. It was way too much fun and we were all screaming and laughing hysterically the entire time. All in all, Ios was one crazy experience and we were definitely sad to leave Greece behind.

Wednesday, June 3, 2009

Livin' la vida Laos

From Chiang Mai, at the urging of various travellers we met in SE Asia, we worked our way to Laos. We began our two day journey taking a bus from Chaing Mai to the border town of Chiang Kong. After staying overnight there at a small hostel, we headed to the water to depart on our boat and cross the border into Laos. This proved to be a much longer and more tedious process than any of us had prepared for. At the port, we exited Thailand, only to be shuttled across the river to the Laos border on a longtail boat. Here, we paid for our visas, got stamped and made about three other random stops alongside a group of equally clueless westerners before boarding our slow boat down the Mekong about three hours later. One would assume that the seats of a boat that we would be spending enough time on in the next two days to drive from Portland to L.A. would at least have cushions. This was not the case. We each bought them before boarding and found a place in the only two remaining wooden benches in the back. Because the seats were full, however, in no way meant the boat was full. As long as there is space on the floor, the boat is not full.

We finally started our slow journey. After two long, sweaty and occasionally tipsy days, everyone on the slow boat got to know eachother. And we arrived at our first Laos destination, Luang Prabang.





LUANG PRABANG
We had few expectations going into Laos beyond the tubing in Vang Vieng, so we were pleasantly surprised when our first stop was a quaint, French inspired town with cobblestone streets, wooden shutters, striped umbrellas and monks in tangerine colored robes. We settled in to our guest house, grabbed dinner and strolled in and out of the shops lining the streets. We retired early the first night weary from travelling. We took it pretty easy the next day, walking around, watching the monks swim in the river and checking out the night market. That night, our friends who we stayed with in Australia, Lindsey, Hillary, Jai and Alexa came and met up with us from Vang Vieng. It was a great reunion-we always enjoy having new people join the group. The next day we decided to go to some waterfalls 35 km away. Beth and Molly decided to do it by bike and about halfway through they realized that there is a reason that they are called beach cruisers. Apparently the baskets on beach cruisers are not meant to be used because Beth's tire became flat, fortunately when they stopped to fix the tire they stumbled upon some adorable puppies :). After two hours riding through undulating hills they reunited at the base of the falls. They were spectacular and had an enchanting feel to them, like they belonged on one of those unicorn fairy posters that grace the walls of magic card playing high schoolers. We hiked to the highest fall that fell into a series of clear pools. Shortly after arriving, middle-school aged monks arrived and started doing backflips off the surrounding trees into the small pools. Later everyone gave the rope swing a try. Around dinner time we headed back to the guest house and got ready for a big night at the bowling alley-the town hangout. The night ended with Rachel, Molly, Jai, Hillary and Alexa playing a variation of hide-and-seek, called sardines in the street.





THE INFAMOUS VANG VIENG
The next morning we took a tuk tuk to a van where we were shuttled off to Vang Vieng. Lindsey joined us, even though she had just come from there. The ride was one of the funniest, most unpleasant rides of the trip. We were all exhausted but the road was windy and the car lacked seat belts or any way to keep yourself in one spot, so sleeping wasn't an option and every turn sent us flying into one another for a grueling 8 hours. All we could really do was laugh because everyone was in the same boat. When we finally got in to town, we got a bungalow along the Vang Vieng river.

After settling in, Lindsey and Molly were on their way to the internet cafe to meet a friend from school who was already there, Carrington, when they ran into him on the street. Our first night, the six of us grabbed some of the best kebabs of the trip and Linds and Carrington filled us in on what we were in store for with this tubing. The next day Danielle and Beth weren't feeling well so they decided not to go to the river. Molly, Rachel, Carrington and Lindsey hopped in a tuk tuk and were greeted at the river with MGMT's Kids blaring from the first bar. It consisted of a bar counter, area with picnic tables and a railless deck covered in mangy rugs and college aged kids drinking Beer Laos and Whiskey buckets. There was a circus style trapeeze swing hanging about 20 feet above the water hanging from a tree. Molly and Carrington climbed to a platform and seconds later were flying through the air while people looked on. As we advanced down the river people got a bit rowdier, music got a bit louder and rope swings, zip lines and water slides materialized. It was a good way to spend our first full day.



Most days played out like this, but on the third day, Molly dove into murky water and had a run in with a rock, sending her to the emergency room in a tuk tuk. Rather than asking her what happened, accustomed to dealing with injuries from the river, the doctor simply asked "were you diving or swinging?" She left bandaged like a cartoon character with a tooth ache. Two days, twenty-something stitches, a black eye, a border crossing and 13+ hours of bus rides later we found ourselves back in Bangkok. As always, John was extremely hospitable and let us stay with him until our flight to Greece. It was a good time to rest, recoup, catch up on The Hills and for Molly to get checked out by a hospital. One night we went out on the town in Bangkok to see how the locals did it-not as much dancing as we expected. We went to a place called Titanium that had an ice bar-a freezer that had a bar sculpted from ice and a bartender in a puffy jacket inside.

Our final night was Cinco de Mayo, and by coincidence, we prepared John a goodbye Mexican feast. The next morning headed to the airport to leave Bangkok for the final time. Goodbye SE Asia!

Thursday, May 14, 2009

Chiang Mai Oh My

After nearly 24 hours of straight traveling, with the exception of four hour delay in Bangkok at the train station, we pulled into Chiang Mai. John, our Bangkok connection, met up with us for Songkran, the Thai New Year and let us stay with him at his hotel the first night we were there. It was quite a step up from the guesthouses and hostels we had become accustomed to-pool, room service, even free shampoo. A little later, we decided to grab a bite and hit the streets to celebrate the new year with water fights. As we were leaving, John advised us to leave anything we cared about in the room or put it in a plastic bag. We soon understood why, after merely ten minutes on the street, we were all soaked from head to toe. We quickly invested in water guns, hopped on a tuk tuk, and joined in the battle. We were all as giddy as children, having buckets of ice water dumped on us, and shooting people with water guns. It was unlike any celebration we have ever been involved in, and we are trying to figure out how to bring at least a day of it back to Portland. People of all ages were lining the streets with buckets, water guns and hoses soaking everyone-paying special attention to tourists. After the first day of the celebration, John returned to Bangkok and we switched to Libra Guest House.

It was impossible for the next three days to leave the guest house dry and return that way. We decided to spend the final day of the celebration on an overnight trek. We left Libra in the morning and our trek guide, Nu, armed each of us with a squirt gun. We spent our ride to the the first stop on our trying to avoid being soaked. Our first stop on the trek was at a beautiful waterfall, and that was followed up with a stop at some hot springs that were nearly too hot to get into. After that we went on a 9k trek, stopping at some tribal villages along the way. On the trek we got soaked by rain and were relieved to arrive at our final destination-a far off Thai village, where we "showered" in the river. We ate dinner and were treated to some "happy juice"-Thai rice whiskey, and some Thai delicacies (beetles and frogs). Danielle enjoyed the beetles so much that she asked what they were seasoned in, and was irritated when the bowl was taken away from her. We ended the night singing songs like Hotel California around the campfire under a blanket of stars. The next day we were awakened early to ride elephants and ride back down the river on bamboo rafts. It was an incredible experience.

We spent the rest of our time there parousing markets and lounging by pools. We even took a cooking class so that we could learn how to bring some of our favorite cuisines home with us-we learned to make the best sticky rice and mangoes of our trip. Chiang Mai exceeded our expectations, and I don't think any of us have seen our last Songkran.

Wednesday, May 13, 2009

Wat's Happenin' Cambodia?

After we bid adieu to the islands, we made a quick stop in Bangkok to recoup before heading to Cambodia. Going through the border was a little more of a hassle than we expected-scams left and right. Once we made it to Siem Reap we got situated in the Ancient Angkor Guest House and planned for the following day at Angkor Wat. The next morning we were picked up by two Tuk Tuk drivers who we had made arrangements with and they drove us to the temples. We spent the entire day awestruck by the massive wats and were amazed by how well they were preserved. Our two favorites were Bayon, an eerie temple covered in faces, and Ta Phrom, used on the set of Tomb Radar because it is being taken over by jungle roots. At the temple little kids from the age they can talk to grandmothers attempt to sell their handicrafts. The kids had facts from every country memorized (capital, population, president) to entice tourists to buy their cheap bracelets, post cards and ice cold water. They were hard to turn down.

In order to get the full Angkor experience, we got a three-day pass so we were able to take in both sunset and sunrise at the temples. Sunrise was tough to get up for, but definitely worth it. Although the city of Siem Reap was touristy, we enjoyed its culture and restaurants. By this time, we were definitely ready to have some western food in our bellies. Before we knew it, we had been there for a week and were off to Chiang Mai.