After nearly 24 hours of straight traveling, with the exception of four hour delay in Bangkok at the train station, we pulled into Chiang Mai. John, our Bangkok connection, met up with us for Songkran, the Thai New Year and let us stay with him at his hotel the first night we were there. It was quite a step up from the guesthouses and hostels we had become accustomed to-pool, room service, even free shampoo. A little later, we decided to grab a bite and hit the streets to celebrate the new year with water fights. As we were leaving, John advised us to leave anything we cared about in the room or put it in a plastic bag. We soon understood why, after merely ten minutes on the street, we were all soaked from head to toe. We quickly invested in water guns, hopped on a tuk tuk, and joined in the battle. We were all as giddy as children, having buckets of ice water dumped on us, and shooting people with water guns. It was unlike any celebration we have ever been involved in, and we are trying to figure out how to bring at least a day of it back to Portland. People of all ages were lining the streets with buckets, water guns and hoses soaking everyone-paying special attention to tourists. After the first day of the celebration, John returned to Bangkok and we switched to Libra Guest House.
It was impossible for the next three days to leave the guest house dry and return that way. We decided to spend the final day of the celebration on an overnight trek. We left Libra in the morning and our trek guide, Nu, armed each of us with a squirt gun. We spent our ride to the the first stop on our trying to avoid being soaked. Our first stop on the trek was at a beautiful waterfall, and that was followed up with a stop at some hot springs that were nearly too hot to get into. After that we went on a 9k trek, stopping at some tribal villages along the way. On the trek we got soaked by rain and were relieved to arrive at our final destination-a far off Thai village, where we "showered" in the river. We ate dinner and were treated to some "happy juice"-Thai rice whiskey, and some Thai delicacies (beetles and frogs). Danielle enjoyed the beetles so much that she asked what they were seasoned in, and was irritated when the bowl was taken away from her. We ended the night singing songs like Hotel California around the campfire under a blanket of stars. The next day we were awakened early to ride elephants and ride back down the river on bamboo rafts. It was an incredible experience.
We spent the rest of our time there parousing markets and lounging by pools. We even took a cooking class so that we could learn how to bring some of our favorite cuisines home with us-we learned to make the best sticky rice and mangoes of our trip. Chiang Mai exceeded our expectations, and I don't think any of us have seen our last Songkran.
Thursday, May 14, 2009
Wednesday, May 13, 2009
Wat's Happenin' Cambodia?
After we bid adieu to the islands, we made a quick stop in Bangkok to recoup before heading to Cambodia. Going through the border was a little more of a hassle than we expected-scams left and right. Once we made it to Siem Reap we got situated in the Ancient Angkor Guest House and planned for the following day at Angkor Wat. The next morning we were picked up by two Tuk Tuk drivers who we had made arrangements with and they drove us to the temples. We spent the entire day awestruck by the massive wats and were amazed by how well they were preserved. Our two favorites were Bayon, an eerie temple covered in faces, and Ta Phrom, used on the set of Tomb Radar because it is being taken over by jungle roots. At the temple little kids from the age they can talk to grandmothers attempt to sell their handicrafts. The kids had facts from every country memorized (capital, population, president) to entice tourists to buy their cheap bracelets, post cards and ice cold water. They were hard to turn down.
In order to get the full Angkor experience, we got a three-day pass so we were able to take in both sunset and sunrise at the temples. Sunrise was tough to get up for, but definitely worth it. Although the city of Siem Reap was touristy, we enjoyed its culture and restaurants. By this time, we were definitely ready to have some western food in our bellies. Before we knew it, we had been there for a week and were off to Chiang Mai.
In order to get the full Angkor experience, we got a three-day pass so we were able to take in both sunset and sunrise at the temples. Sunrise was tough to get up for, but definitely worth it. Although the city of Siem Reap was touristy, we enjoyed its culture and restaurants. By this time, we were definitely ready to have some western food in our bellies. Before we knew it, we had been there for a week and were off to Chiang Mai.
Friday, May 8, 2009
Turtle Island
A short ferry ride from Ko Phangan brought us to our last stop in southern Thailand... Ko Tao. We quickly signed up for a PADI Scuba Diving certification class at Ban's Diving Resort, and were excited to find that we also got free accomodation with the course. For the next week, Rachel, Molly and Beth completed nine dives. The first day was 4 hours in a classroom-we weren't expecting to return to school so soon. Our charismatic and slightly vulger English dive instructor made the experience that much better with his sheer enthusiasm for diving and his zest for life. He became a big fan of the "American Girls" during the course of the week. Day two was spent in the pool, learning the basics like how to breath through a regulator, remove our masks under water, remain neutrally buoyant while maintaining proper scuba swimming form and assist a buddy if their air was out. Rachel's form was perfect-the instructor told the class to watch her because her kicks were long and straight "like daggars." Our favorite dive was the night dive, where we felt like we were tink and peter pan with our hands moving through the water creating pixie dust-like bubbles. You'd think it would be scary to shut off your flashlight in pitch black water, but it was the most incredible experience and we can't wait to do it again. At the end of the week we finally celebrated Rachel's birthday with dinner out, where Carrington (UofO friend) happened to walk by and spot us. We all headed to a Muay Thai fight in the jungle afterwards, where our dive instructor was oddly enough the emcee. We watched several fights, ranging from 7 years old to mid-twenties. We enjoyed it much more than we'd expected and had fun hanging out with Carrington and drinking Chang to celebrate Rachel's 23rd. On our way home we grabbed our last thai pancake from our favorite pancake maker, who did some pretty cool knife tricks. Spent the next day hanging around relaxing and watching movies at a restaurant on the beach waiting to catch the night ferry back to mainland, and then a bus up to Bangkok.
Monday, April 20, 2009
"Biggest Beach Party, International DJ's"
We arrived in Surat Thani with 10 hours to kill and quickly discovered that it was not a common tourist destination. Food and English speaking people were hard to come by-which allowed us to save our bellies for the huge night market. When it got dark, the town came alive. Picture Saturday market to the tenth degree, Asian-style. With happy hearts and full tummies we boarded the night ferry. We fell asleep almost immediately.
We woke up on the ferry around 5:30 am, took a tuk tuk to Haad Rin and headed straight for Same Same Lodge, which was recommended by our guide book. We hit the beach late in the morning and could tell it was a party town (it's home of the famous full moon party) by the lack of people up at that hour.
Our first night we found it to live up to it's party reputation. We attended the Drop In Bar's 30th Anniversary. "Music, drinks, free barbeque, fire show, International DJ's." We hit the dance floor and later the beach erupted into a foam party. It was a great introduction to our stay on Ko Phangan.
Most days, we woke up, grabbed shakes, relaxed on our lay-lows (floaties) and soaked up the sun, nearby a patch of palm trees.
From our beach spot, we saw a tattered flier posted on one of the palm trees describing a "light trek" along the Green dot trail. We decided we were in need of some excerise after days at the beach, and headed out the next day. Based on the flier, we were expecting a moderate stroll through the cool jungle. Instead, we spent three hours hiking up the most rigorous trek EVER. We were on all fours hiking up clay gravel and boulders in the scorching heat. We felt like we had fallen for the city's inside tourist joke. Danielle almost didn't make it and considered turning back until she was heavily amused by Kevin's ability to manuever the steep hills in his tractionless indoor soccer shoes. Finally, after sweat, blisters and bug bites, we made it to the Sanctuary. No, we're not kidding. It was literally a detox oasis retreat on the beach. We took a quick dip in the ocean and hopped on a longtail back to Haad Rin.
On one of our last days, we rented mopeds for 200 baht ($6) and explored the many beaches of the island. Molly's bike broke down, leaving us stranded for a couple hours, but luckily Danielle and Beth got to try Dragonfruit. After the minor incident, we enjoyed cruising around and trying local street food. On the way back to our guesthouse, we were overtaken by the picturesque sunset and stopped for a gorgeous photo-op. After a week-long stay, we were beginning to feel very at home on Ko Phangan and were sad to part from the island and Kev.
We woke up on the ferry around 5:30 am, took a tuk tuk to Haad Rin and headed straight for Same Same Lodge, which was recommended by our guide book. We hit the beach late in the morning and could tell it was a party town (it's home of the famous full moon party) by the lack of people up at that hour.
Our first night we found it to live up to it's party reputation. We attended the Drop In Bar's 30th Anniversary. "Music, drinks, free barbeque, fire show, International DJ's." We hit the dance floor and later the beach erupted into a foam party. It was a great introduction to our stay on Ko Phangan.
Most days, we woke up, grabbed shakes, relaxed on our lay-lows (floaties) and soaked up the sun, nearby a patch of palm trees.
From our beach spot, we saw a tattered flier posted on one of the palm trees describing a "light trek" along the Green dot trail. We decided we were in need of some excerise after days at the beach, and headed out the next day. Based on the flier, we were expecting a moderate stroll through the cool jungle. Instead, we spent three hours hiking up the most rigorous trek EVER. We were on all fours hiking up clay gravel and boulders in the scorching heat. We felt like we had fallen for the city's inside tourist joke. Danielle almost didn't make it and considered turning back until she was heavily amused by Kevin's ability to manuever the steep hills in his tractionless indoor soccer shoes. Finally, after sweat, blisters and bug bites, we made it to the Sanctuary. No, we're not kidding. It was literally a detox oasis retreat on the beach. We took a quick dip in the ocean and hopped on a longtail back to Haad Rin.
On one of our last days, we rented mopeds for 200 baht ($6) and explored the many beaches of the island. Molly's bike broke down, leaving us stranded for a couple hours, but luckily Danielle and Beth got to try Dragonfruit. After the minor incident, we enjoyed cruising around and trying local street food. On the way back to our guesthouse, we were overtaken by the picturesque sunset and stopped for a gorgeous photo-op. After a week-long stay, we were beginning to feel very at home on Ko Phangan and were sad to part from the island and Kev.
Smilay in Railay
After taking a ferry from Krabi we stopped in the middle of the ocean where we were boarded a long tail boat to the shore...they stopped off the shore and had us get out in knee deep water. A wave splashed Rachel, almost taking her and her backpack out with it, and the driver laughed at her. We immediately headed to the east, or "backpacker's" side of the island to look for lodging.
After looking around we decided to pass up the cockroaches and centipedes for roommates. We found the perfect place-the only problem was that we had to climb a huge, steep flight of stairs, and then hike to our cabin. The hike was well worth the view of the lime stone mountains and the ocean. Our first night we fortunately made it the restaurant for dinner just before it started to pour/thunderstorm. We quickly learned that one drop of rain meant a storm is brewing and that first drop sent us on a sprint to our next destination.
The next day, exactly as she had previously described her dream to Beth, Molly turned a random corner to see a sweaty, well-traveled Kevin clad in a green t-shirt. After getting him situated in a room, we all headed to the beach. Beth went exploring and swam around a cliff to a nearby beach. Quite the adventurer.
Our final full day was spent with Molly rock climbing, while Beth, Rachel and Kevin explored a diamond cave. Danielle spent the day lounging on the beach.
It was great having Kevin with us. Railay was a quaint island, decorated in Bob Marley tapestries. A nice break from the constant bustle of Ko Phi Phi.
Next off to Surat Thani to board a night ferry to Ko Phangan.
After looking around we decided to pass up the cockroaches and centipedes for roommates. We found the perfect place-the only problem was that we had to climb a huge, steep flight of stairs, and then hike to our cabin. The hike was well worth the view of the lime stone mountains and the ocean. Our first night we fortunately made it the restaurant for dinner just before it started to pour/thunderstorm. We quickly learned that one drop of rain meant a storm is brewing and that first drop sent us on a sprint to our next destination.
The next day, exactly as she had previously described her dream to Beth, Molly turned a random corner to see a sweaty, well-traveled Kevin clad in a green t-shirt. After getting him situated in a room, we all headed to the beach. Beth went exploring and swam around a cliff to a nearby beach. Quite the adventurer.
Our final full day was spent with Molly rock climbing, while Beth, Rachel and Kevin explored a diamond cave. Danielle spent the day lounging on the beach.
It was great having Kevin with us. Railay was a quaint island, decorated in Bob Marley tapestries. A nice break from the constant bustle of Ko Phi Phi.
Next off to Surat Thani to board a night ferry to Ko Phangan.
Sunday, April 5, 2009
We Heart Na To Nai
Our flight from Sydney to Bangkok exceeded our expectations. Thai Airways treated us with our own individual entertainment unit, where we got to chose from a wide range of newly released movies, which we all took advantage of. The service was amazing, and we felt extremely spoiled. As soon as we walked off the plane our driver Na To Nai greeted us with open arms and four beautiful bouquets of flowers. We met Jon and got to see our luxurious accomodations for the next few days. We went out to our first Thai dinner at a little restaurant on Sukhumvit and Soi 11, where we met Jon's friend Kristen and feasted on a family-style dinner of cashew fried rice, curry, cocunut soup, and a few cocktails. Jon left for the States the next morning and left his luxurious apartment, driver, housekeeper and huge selection of movies all to us! The next day Danielle felt a bit ill and rested up while the rest of us went out to explore Sukhumvit Rd. That night we took a tuk tuk to the Suan Lum night bazaar, where we wandered through a maze of stalls and drank our first of many delicious fruit shakes. We were entertained by hilarious Thai renditions of popular American songs, from artists like Akon and JT, while watching the emotionless backup dancers strut their stuff. The next morning our smiley driver took us to the well-known Damnoen Saduak floating market about two hours outside of Bangkok. We floated through the canals on a longtail boat and sampled some of the local food. Danielle purchased a fresh cocunut, which she enjoyed thoroughly. It was touristy but interesting nonetheless. That same night we went to one of the world's sexiest bars, according to Conde Nast Traveller. On the rooftop of the Banyan Tree Hotel, we sipped on yummy cocktails, and took in the amazing view of Bangkok's expansive city lights. On our last morning in Bangkok, before flying to Phuket, we hit up the Chatuchak or JJ Market, where we got lost among vendors of everything from clothes to puppies.
Our flight to Phuket was short and sweet, and definitely a better choice than a 13 hour bus ride. After arriving in Phuket we grabbed a cab to Phang-Nga. Our cab driver was less than enthusiastic to take us there, to put it lightly. For the entire ride he tried to dissuade us from our destination. "No beat (beach), no food, no people, no disco, just mountains" is all he had to say about Phang-Nga, which made Rachel a little uneasy about where we were headed, but Danielle reassured us all. We got our first glimpse of the limestone cliffs that surrounded the small town. As soon as we arrived we were greeted by thunder and lightening and a downpour of rain. The receptionist at the Guesthouse where we stayed laughed when we decided to shared one room and two small beds, where we enjoyed a cozy, but very warm overnight stay. Our first real look at the backpackers lifestyle. We quickly arranged a tour of Phang-Nga National Park for the next morning. We left early on a longtail boat and spent the day admiring the spectacular landscape of lush green islands surrounded by clear ocean water. At one point the driver of our longtail boat pulled up to a small beach, roughly ten feet in length, and handed us each a torch, pointing to a ladder leading to a cave. We curiously climbed inside to find a surprisingly large sparkling cave, at the end of which was a small crack opening into a lagoon. After lunch on a small beach and a quick swim we arrived at Koh Panyi where we spent the night on the floating Muslim fisherman's village. We had dinner with a lovely Swiss couple, and spent the night in a rickety little bungalow. The next day we were off to Koh Phi Phi! We made friends with two English girls on the ferry ride over, and looked for accomodations together. After over an hour of searching the island in the heat and the rain, we found a cute little bungalow to stay in. That night we all went out to dinner together, where we ate amazing curry, and then made our way to the beach for a fire show, our first buckets and lots of dancing. We spent most of our days on Koh Phi Phi lying lazily on the beach and drinking delicious fruit shakes (mango, watermelon, banana, pineapple, coconut). Our nights were spent avoiding thunderstorms, eating curries, and enjoying the bustling nightlife of the island. It was here that we experience our first taste of thai style banana pancakes, which quickly won our hearts over. We also met two lovely English guys, playing the guitar and singing songs. Maya beach, from the movie The Beach, was a must see, so we headed out early one day on a longtail boat, and got to see the gorgeous beach before the crowds arrived. The water was crystal clear, and the fish swam at our feet as we explored the warm ocean water. Molly, Rachel and Beth snorkelled to a small adjacent beach, although the snorkels were completely unneccessary with such incredibly clear water. The beach lost some of its appeal as more and more tourists arrived, so we headed off to see the rest of the limestone islands. The longtail boat took around even more spectacular waters, and at one point it was so enticing that we had to ask to stop the boat and jump in. Our last stop was Monkey Bay, where we were amused by what seemed like dozens of monkeys who were surprisingly people-friendly and hungry for fruit and pepsi. One even climbed on top of Molly's back and perched on her shoulder, while another attempted to steal Danielle's sunnies. A great end to life on Phi Phi.
Our flight to Phuket was short and sweet, and definitely a better choice than a 13 hour bus ride. After arriving in Phuket we grabbed a cab to Phang-Nga. Our cab driver was less than enthusiastic to take us there, to put it lightly. For the entire ride he tried to dissuade us from our destination. "No beat (beach), no food, no people, no disco, just mountains" is all he had to say about Phang-Nga, which made Rachel a little uneasy about where we were headed, but Danielle reassured us all. We got our first glimpse of the limestone cliffs that surrounded the small town. As soon as we arrived we were greeted by thunder and lightening and a downpour of rain. The receptionist at the Guesthouse where we stayed laughed when we decided to shared one room and two small beds, where we enjoyed a cozy, but very warm overnight stay. Our first real look at the backpackers lifestyle. We quickly arranged a tour of Phang-Nga National Park for the next morning. We left early on a longtail boat and spent the day admiring the spectacular landscape of lush green islands surrounded by clear ocean water. At one point the driver of our longtail boat pulled up to a small beach, roughly ten feet in length, and handed us each a torch, pointing to a ladder leading to a cave. We curiously climbed inside to find a surprisingly large sparkling cave, at the end of which was a small crack opening into a lagoon. After lunch on a small beach and a quick swim we arrived at Koh Panyi where we spent the night on the floating Muslim fisherman's village. We had dinner with a lovely Swiss couple, and spent the night in a rickety little bungalow. The next day we were off to Koh Phi Phi! We made friends with two English girls on the ferry ride over, and looked for accomodations together. After over an hour of searching the island in the heat and the rain, we found a cute little bungalow to stay in. That night we all went out to dinner together, where we ate amazing curry, and then made our way to the beach for a fire show, our first buckets and lots of dancing. We spent most of our days on Koh Phi Phi lying lazily on the beach and drinking delicious fruit shakes (mango, watermelon, banana, pineapple, coconut). Our nights were spent avoiding thunderstorms, eating curries, and enjoying the bustling nightlife of the island. It was here that we experience our first taste of thai style banana pancakes, which quickly won our hearts over. We also met two lovely English guys, playing the guitar and singing songs. Maya beach, from the movie The Beach, was a must see, so we headed out early one day on a longtail boat, and got to see the gorgeous beach before the crowds arrived. The water was crystal clear, and the fish swam at our feet as we explored the warm ocean water. Molly, Rachel and Beth snorkelled to a small adjacent beach, although the snorkels were completely unneccessary with such incredibly clear water. The beach lost some of its appeal as more and more tourists arrived, so we headed off to see the rest of the limestone islands. The longtail boat took around even more spectacular waters, and at one point it was so enticing that we had to ask to stop the boat and jump in. Our last stop was Monkey Bay, where we were amused by what seemed like dozens of monkeys who were surprisingly people-friendly and hungry for fruit and pepsi. One even climbed on top of Molly's back and perched on her shoulder, while another attempted to steal Danielle's sunnies. A great end to life on Phi Phi.
Thursday, March 12, 2009
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